Suede jackets and British weather are not friends, and if you buy one expecting it to shrug off a sudden downpour the way a leather jacket does, you will end up with a jacket that looks like it has been left out overnight. Water leaves marks, oil leaves marks, even a greasy hand resting on the sleeve on a bus leaves a mark. And yet I still think it is worth having one, because nothing else gives that soft, worn in look from the first day you wear it, no breaking in required, no stiff cuffs to fight with.
In the shop, run your hand across the surface before anything else. You want an even nap, not patches that look shinier or flatter than the rest, because that unevenness only gets more obvious with wear. Check the seams for loose stitching, check the lining doesn't bunch when you move your arms, and have a proper look at the colour in daylight near a window if there is one, because suede dye can look quite different under shop lighting. Try the zip or the buttons a few times too. A stiff zip on day one tends to stay stiff, or worse, starts catching the suede around it.
It is worth being honest about what it does not sit well with. Anything delicate and slippery against it, like a silk scarf or a fine knit, tends to pick up fluff or snag on the texture, and you will spend half the day picking bits off. It also fights with very sharp, structured tailoring underneath, the kind with crisp pleats and hard lines, because the softness of the suede just makes the rest look stiffer by comparison rather than smart.
Over a season it holds up better than people expect if you treat it properly, which mostly means a suede protector spray before the first wear and a decent brush kept in a drawer rather than a bag. Scuffs from being shoved into an overstuffed bag do happen, and once the nap is crushed in one spot it rarely bounces back on its own. Washing is out of the question, cleaning means a specialist, so this is not a jacket for someone who wants to throw everything in with a normal load and forget about it. It is also not the right choice if you commute somewhere properly wet for half the year, or if you need something you can bundle up and travel with without worrying about where it lands in the case.
Would I still reach for this on a day when rain is forecast, or would I be quietly relieved to leave it on the hanger and grab something else instead?
Picked by Tamsin Pascoe. More in Jackets.