Category: Flats

Flats come into their own in that stretch of the year when the weather cannot decide what it is doing, drizzle at nine, sun by eleven, and you need something you can walk to the station in without thinking about it. They are also the shoe I reach for on any week with more than one long day in it, back to back things where comfort matters more than making an entrance. A soft pair with a bit of give across the toe will take you from a morning meeting to an evening you did not plan for, and that is most of their appeal.
Where they let you down is anywhere properly wet or properly formal. Thin soles and puddles do not get on, and most flats have so little tread that a wet pavement or a cobbled street will have you walking like you are on ice, so save them for dry days or carry a backup if rain is forecast. They also struggle to carry anything that wants real polish, a sharp tailored trouser suit or a structured coat can look slightly undone with a flat pump underneath, because the whole look leans on a bit of height to balance it out. As for ageing, leather ones soften and mould to your foot over months in a way that is genuinely nice, the crease across the top just becomes part of the shoe, but the back of the heel and the edge of the sole take the brunt of pavement wear, so a cobbler reheel after a few months of proper use is worth it rather than letting them wear down to nothing and throwing the whole pair out. Keep suede ones away from standing water altogether, and give leather pairs a wipe and a bit of polish every few weeks rather than once a year, it makes a real difference to how long they last. A fabric or canvas flat will mark and fade faster than either, so they are better treated as a season's shoe than a long term one.
They sit happily with cropped straight trousers, a midi skirt, jeans turned up slightly at the ankle, or a plain dress where you want the shoe to disappear rather than make a point. They are less happy with anything already busy on the leg, a heavily patterned trouser or a floor length hem that swallows the shoe entirely and just makes the whole outfit look lower and flatter than you meant it to. For occasions, think everyday wear, work, travel days, a wedding where you know you will be on your feet for hours and want something you can switch into after the photos. I would not wear them to anything that calls for real formality, but for almost everything else, a good pair of flats will quietly outwork most of the shoes in your collection.
Picked by Rosie Allard. More in Shoes.