I used to think one black belt did the job of all of them, so for years I had a single thin plastic one that came free with a dress and lived in a drawer getting cracked at the buckle. Then I bought a proper leather one by accident, really, I grabbed it to hold up a pair of jeans in a changing room and ended up wearing it every day for two years. Turns out the cheap one wasn’t doing nothing. It was doing the job badly.
A good black belt starts with the leather, or a faux that’s been made to behave like leather, not shine like a bin bag. Pick it up and bend it. It should curve, not crease into a hard line, and the edge should be finished, not left raw and fraying after a few wears. The buckle matters more than people think. A flimsy one will warp or go loose at the pin within months, so give it a proper press with your thumb, you want resistance, not give. Stitching should sit close to the edge and be even all the way round. If you’re only buying one, go for a medium width, about an inch and a half, in a matt finish, because that’s the one that will sit happily through a belt loop on jeans and still look right cinching in a dress. And do check where it sits on you, not just the length, because a belt that’s correctly sized at the waist but cut too wide will ride up on anyone shortish through the body and look like it’s strangling a cardigan.
Jeans, trench coats, a plain shirt dress, all easy. It earns its keep on anything with waist loops that gape slightly without one, and on a shapeless jumper dress it’s the difference between looking dressed and looking like you’re still in your pyjamas. It fights with anything that already has a defined waist, like a wrap dress or a fitted blazer, where adding a belt just creates a second waistline and confuses the eye. It also fights with bulky knitwear, the buckle gets lost and the leather bunches.
It won’t rescue a dress that’s cut badly through the middle, and it won’t make narrow loops fit a wide belt, that’s a different belt, not a different problem. Buy the better one. It outlasts three cheap ones and never once embarrasses you at the buckle.
Picked by Megan Rees. More in Belts.