Will a plunge bra actually show under a top that gapes at the button, or will I still see half my bra having bought the right style for nothing? That's the question, and the honest answer is it depends entirely on the depth of the plunge and how low the centre gore sits, not just the word "plunge" on the label. A good one sits low and close between the cups with almost nothing joining them. A cheap one has the same low cut but a wide bridge that just sits flat on your skin instead of tucking in, so you get the same gap showing through the shirt you bought it for in the first place.
Fit is where most of us get this wrong, myself included, and I spent a good few years wearing a plunge a full back size too big because I liked how the cups looked in the mirror and ignored the band riding up at the sides by lunchtime. The band should sit level all the way round and feel snug on the loosest hook when it's new, because it'll give a little with wear. The cups matter more here than in an ordinary bra, because a plunge gives you less fabric to hide behind if the size is off, so spilling at the top or gaping at the outer edge shows immediately, there's no high neckline to cover for it. Underwire that digs in at the side of the bust usually means the cup is too small, not that underwire itself is the problem.
Where a plunge bra lets you down is under anything with a high or boat neckline, because all that clever low centre gore is designed for a deep V and does nothing for you otherwise, you're just wearing a slightly less supportive bra for no reason. It also doesn't love very sheer fabric, since the thinner moulded cups that make a plunge work can show through a pale silky top in bright light in a way a fuller cup wouldn't.
On colour I'd go for skin tones that actually match your skin rather than a vague beige that matches nobody's, a soft blush or a warm taupe disappears under white and pale colours far better than true white does, which almost always has a shadow of lace or seam showing through. Black is honest and easy under dark tops. A plunge in a decent fabric, cut properly for your actual size, does the one job you need from it and then you forget you're wearing it, which is really all any of us are after.
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